The fire goes in at seven in the morning and stays in until the last table leaves.
Most of what we cook spends some time near it. Bread at the back, fish on the grill above it, lamb necks in the embers for most of the afternoon, and beetroot buried in the ash at lunch and dug up again for dinner.
We burn vine cuttings and orchard prunings, which the farms are glad to be rid of. Never pine, which makes everything taste faintly of a sauna.
There is also a gas hob, for sauces. We don't talk about it.